This period is often around 10 – 12 weeks and can allow the wood to start to silver some, it depends very much on the time of year and level of exposure to the wood. You may find that it this time of year you may get away with minimal fading as we go through the winter. And the wood may then be ready for application come the Spring. Barretine - another solvent based oil. Also offers UV protection in a clear varnish and has marginally less performance than the Manns whilst still being a high performer It would need a little bit of experimentation first to get the right result, it may be that you only require a very small amount of the coloured oil added to the clear, it is vital to thoroughly mix them together. So small ratio measures first and tests on your wood, until you get the desired result and then you are able to mix up a larger quantity in the same ratio to complete the project. This will help you to control the colour a bit more for getting the lighter result.

Estimated coverage 20m²/L with one coat. Compatibility could vary with ribbed, grooved, or rough surfaces I stumbled upon your informative article so thank you but I do have a query that I hope you can help with. Oils 3 Stains 3 Varnishes 6 Waxes 1 Cleaners 2 Polishes 1 Accessories 4 Fillers 1 Lacquers 2 Primers 3 Dyes 1Thank you for getting in touch. I can make some recommendations for a protective product, however anything you apply may darken the wood slightly, much like water does. Over time this could fade down although you may not be able to fully maintain that silvered appearance. What amazed me the most was the oil’s protective qualities. After treating the table, I noticed that water beaded up on the surface instead of soaking in, making it easy to clean and maintain. Plus, it worked wonderfully on both interior and exterior wood surfaces, giving it versatility and broad applicability.

As the wood is Balau there may be a naturally high oil content already and a test area first to ensure the wood will accept further oil is strongly recommended. You could wipe down the surface of the wood with Methylated spirits first as this will encourage the wood to accept more oil. Then two thin coats are all that is required. But what about the colour. This is meant to be truly clear in spite of the UV protection, and the UV protection in all these oils and water based products is like a pair of sunglasses protecting the wood, which tends to involve the introduction of a pigment that can give the wood a yellow or other tint. What would you recommend we do to the floorboards now? Should we treat them with an oil now, before laying vinyl? Or would that be a bad idea? Or is there a basic preservative that we should apply, to ensure that they don’t get damaged by damp or whatever? Or will they be fine, as long as the cabin is well enough put together? If you keep up with regular maintenance there should be no need to retreat with the reviver, but if you do need to use it again in the future the oil will need to have worn away or you can use a pressure washer to remove the last of it. As you have a dog I would recommend considering an oiled finish, this will be far easier to maintain over time, oils soak into the wood surface and so is less likely to be effected by claw marks, and even if it is, you can simply patch repair and the oil will blend well. Oils are also easy to maintain as they wear, simply ensure the surface is clean and dry and then you are able to apply a top up coat when needed, usually around 1 or 2 years down the line, depending on use.

Thank you for this incredibly helpful article and for your detailed responses. It’s awesome to see a business taking the time to provide customers with such helpful information. We are set up to do a big deep clean with oxygen bleach and want to apply something that is as indestructible, low maintenance and long lasting as possible. Basically hoping to get it done and forget about it for as many years as possible!

As I’ve discovered, some oils offer better water resistance, while others provide enhanced UV protection. The appearance of the finish, such as matte or glossy, is also worth considering when making my decision. It would be one or the other as they are not compatible products. The Oils are designed to soak into the surface of the wood and protect. It gives a natural look and feel to the wood and is easy to apply and maintain over time, by simply re-coating when you feel the wood needs it. Resistant to changeable weather conditions, general wear and tear, prevents wood from greying and splitting. Also oiled finishes although dry and ready to use after 24 – 48 hours continue to cure and get more durable for days and weeks following application. Covering will prevent the natural curing process from occurring and this is one of the reasons we do not recommend putting rugs over and oiled floor for the first month. Having recently used Remmers Douglas Fir Oil on my garden furniture, I found it to be an excellent choice for protecting and preserving the wood. It’s an eco-friendly option with the EU Ecolabel award, and that’s important to me as I try to make more sustainable choices in my day-to-day life.

We plan to lay vinyl flooring as the cabin will be used by lots of kids. We’ll probably want to lift the vinyl in a few years when the kids are older. At that time, we’ll probably apply an oil. We almost certainly won’t want to varnish the floor. One other thing to bare in mind is if the fence is rough sawn it will absorb far more of the product that the recommended guidelines and so give a more intense colour. When you start adding a little colour, the factor increases, so a light or natural oak for example will bring you up to a 20 – 30 factor and then a dark oak, rosewood, or dark brown will bring you up to a factor 50. This is the best way to maintain the natural colour of the wood over time, but of course if you don’t want to add colour then a clear oil with UV stabalisers will require annual top up.