Or if you’re looking for versatile, multi-purpose additives that can do it all, we’ve got some great products including the Sealorend Waterproofer, Retarder and Plasticiser that is especially handy when working with larger areas, as well as the SBR Admixture which serves as a bonding agent, sealer, primer and waterproofer in one. Our cement plasticiser range includes Bond It’s Water-Resistant Plasticiser which improves the workability of concrete and mortar in its wet state whilst also doubling as a cement waterproofer. The Sealoproof Cement Waterproofer creates a durable waterproof finish while also acting as a cement and render retarder to slow down the setting process, whilst Sealomix’s Mortar Plasticiser supplies added strength to concrete and adds frost-resistance against freezing and thawing. They are available in a huge range of different shades and colours and can be used to change the colour of a mortar mix to match any given existing mortar or surface. Now that you know exactly how to create some test mixes and compare to your existing mortar to find a colour match, it’s now just a question of getting it done, but before you make a start there are a few further points to be aware of: I wonder if I need a different cement, to include lime not snowcrete, a different colour sand? If anyone can help I'd be grateful.

On having a close look at the sand, pay attention to the size of the particles. If they are fairly small and of a uniform size, then it most cases this will be a standard building sand. However if small visible stone chips of varying sizes are evident this may indicate the possible use of sharp sand. Step 8 – Dispose of Acid Solution Now that we have established the probable types of sand and cement or lime that was used for the original mortar mix, all that remains is to match the correct cement content. Please find some colour examples from the pictures below. More will be added soon. Colours may vary depending on many factors such as the brand of cement used, the colour of sand used, the ratio's of stone and sand used etc. Computer monitor settings and angle at which you view your monitor will also lighten or darken the colour shades. So please use this chart as a guide only. Similar to the way in which lime can significantly lighten the colour of mortar, as you may imagine, using white cement has the same effect. After you have created each mix, take a sample and place it on a scrap piece of wood. Do this for each mix until you have a long line of samples. Label each mix e.g. 3:1, 4:1 etc. so you know which is which and then leave them to fully dry.Now pour some clean, fresh water into both the containers. This will help to dilute the remaining acid in both, making it weaker and less hazardous. Put a lid on the container with your waste acid and put this to one side for now. Step 6 – Drain off Sand Solution This is easy enough to do but does involve a little time and patience as you will need to create a range of different mixes using different ratios of cement to sand. But with a 4:1 mix and standard Blue Circle cement, both come out largely grey (the golden sand comes out a lighter grey).

In some cases it is possible to take a sample of the original mortar, break it down and separate out the sand. With a sample of the original sand to hand you can then use it to compare against sand from different sources until you find an exact or very close match. Step 1 – Get Samples However, if the mortar is very light in colour then this suggests that either a white cement (aka Snowcrete) or lime has been used. Firstly, get a couple of samples of mortar. If the joints that you’re looking to repair are particularly damaged then you should be able to prise some chunks of old mortar out. With your sample to hand place them on an old scrap piece of wood. Using a similar scrap piece of wood, place this on top and use it to grind the mortar down.With your solution prepared, pour in the course dust that you created earlier and stir it around to mix it up fully. Step 4 – Wait for Results Now, pour your sand solution gently over the top. The tights will act as a sieve, allowing the remaining water/acid solution to drain off, leaving you with just your sand. As the name suggests, muriatic acid is in fact hydrochloric acid which is very dangerous. At all times during this experiment you should wear old clothes, chemical resistant gloves made from PVC or Butyl rubber and at minimum eye protection, preferably full facial protection. Place the sand on an old sheet/cloth and leave it somewhere out of the way to fully dry off. Once dry, pop it into a clear sealed jar or container. Step 7 – Match the Sample Final specifications?If further advice is required, one of our Mortar Specialists can visit with our Mortar Colour Selector to assist in finding an appropriate match. Call our Mortar Helpline on 0800 667 827 for more details.

If you know the age of your property and its pre-1900’ish then the chances are it may feature a lime-based mortar, especially if it is light in colour. For this reason it is fairly essential that you identify and use the same sand that was used for the original mortar, although often this isn’t always possible as pits, mines and quarries close or run out of materials, local suppliers shut down, sand supplies are sourced from abroad etc. Firstly, start with a 3:1 mix (3 sand to 1 cement) and then a 3½:1 (3½ sand to 1 cement), then a 4:1 mix (4 sand to 1 cement), then a 4½:1 mix (4½ sand to 1 cement) and so on, all the way up to a 6:1 mix. If you are working with lime then you will also need to do the same, but with lime you will only be working with ratios between 3:1 (3 sand to 1 lime) and 5:1 (5 sand to 1 lime). Once dried, simply hold your sample board up to the existing mortar and look along the line until you spot a close or identical colour match and this will indicate the mix ratio to go for.

How to Colour Match Mortar

The key to this whole process is consistency with the mix ratio. If you have a lot of pointing or repair work to do then to maintain a consistent colour match from your first mix to your last, everyone has to be the same. This is also the case for your test mixes, so when measuring quantities for each mix component use a set size object such as a measuring jug or cut down soft drink bottle, filling each one to the brim each time and then levelling it off. Matching mortar colours is often required with older, period properties where repairs that are carried out need to be made invisible.