Applying the Render The render is applied onto the wall using a trowel or a rendering machine. Application should start from the wall’s bottom and progress upwards. After the initial layer, it is advisable to let it set for a few hours before applying a second coat. Apply the render in thin, even coats, working it into the surface. Use a straight edge for leveling and air bubble removal. Corner Tools: Corner tools, such as corner trowels or corner floats, are essential for finishing the corners of walls neatly and precisely. The best mix ratio for sand and cement rendering is 1:1:6 one part cement, one part lime and six parts Sand. Ideally your sand ratio should be 3:3 three parts silver sand and three parts grit sand. What tools do I need for sand and cement rendering?

Using a water hose or any other water source, spray the wall you intend to sand down until it is sufficiently wet. Fill in any holes using some more render applied using the trowel and repeat the straight edge levelling process using the battens as guides, if there are any. If not use the straight edge itself and ensure render is touching all the way across its length. Lime does the same job as cement in that it holds the particles of sand together while setting (albeit much more slowly) but its real value is that it allows any moisture trapped in the surface of the building to evaporate out.

Rendering and the Building Regulations

Unless the wall has been recently built, you will need to clean it well by removing any loose paint, dust or loose debris, plants growing and anything similar. Use a long handled stiff broom and stiff hand brush to brush the entire surface over, removing as much loose material as possible. Repeat Depending on the paint type and desired finish, multiple coats may be required. Allow each coat to dry completely before proceeding. Wet dash render has been used on a variety of building types throughout its history. It is commonly found on medieval buildings in the form of rendered panels on timber-framed houses. These small panels of wet dash render highlighted the architectural features of the houses. The lifespan of silicone render can vary depending on several factors, such as the installation’s quality and the maintenance level. Generally, silicone render can last for around 25 years, but it may require repairs or reapplication over time. this new renderers stabelizing primer is a very new product and I don't think it will last long.Any product that breaks down with water in any way shape or form can't be any good for external rendering IMO.

So, you want to K rend your home, but you already have old painted render that would be costly to remove. So, what are your options, and can you just render over the top? Screed: A screed is a straight edge tool, often made of metal or aluminum, used to level the render and create a flat surface. It helps ensure that the render is applied evenly across the wall. Apply even pressure firmly on the sander, but do not press too hard to avoid damaging the motor and scratching the wall. Improved Appearance. Sand and cement render can enhance a building’s appearance, providing a uniform finish that can be further customized with paint or tint. Protect adjacent surfaces from splashes and remove any 507 Rendagrip before drying with warm soapy water

As we have mentioned, rendering is very much the same as plastering and due to this requires practice beforehand to get the hang of it so take the time to practice using a piece of platerboard fixed to a garage or shed wall first. This is effectively done by either mechanically fixing (screws, bolts etc.) or gluing solid insulation sheets or in some cases building a timber battening frame to contain the insulation sheets over the exterior wall and then it is then covered using a mesh fixed in place and rendered over or the mesh is fixed over the insulation and rendered straight on top of that. Out of the options available this is normally the last option to consider as it doesn’t give a great finish and doesn’t always provide the levels of insulation the other 2 options achieve. As it sets, the dried cement resembles concrete, which makes sanding the render particularly difficult. It became very popular during the 19th-century arts and crafts movement and was incorporated into many of the new style housing estates that sprung up over that period. It fell out of favour during the 20th century and pebbledash, in particular, started to gain a less-than-stellar reputation. It was used on a lot of the new homes that suddenly needed to be built and was chosen because there was a skills shortage at the time so other, more complicated forms, of finishing homes were harder to find.